Punching Above Its Weight
One of the smallest yet wealthiest countries in the world is home to an ancient fortress within a UNESCO World Heritage site, the seat of the European Court of Justice, and Edward Steichen’s The Family of Man photography exhibition. The Grand Duchy of Luxembourg emerged as an independent nation in the 19th century following a millennium of revolving rulers attracted to its strategic location atop a cliff called the Bock. Nestled among today’s Belgian, French, and German borders, Luxembourg eventually asserted its own sovereignty, identity, and language while capitalizing on its history to take on a prominent role in European and international cooperation.
Panoramic view of Luxembourg City's Grund and its fortifications at dusk, in Luxembourg. Image credit: Benh LIEU SONG, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Its capital, Luxembourg City, developed from a castle on the Bock called Lucilinburhuc that was acquired in 963 by Siegfried I, Count of Ardennes and a descendant of Charlemagne. Successive owners and occupiers expanded the fortress and surrounding community, placing Luxembourg under the rule of the Duke of Burgundy, the Spanish Netherlands, Austrian Habsburgs, Prussia, French King Louis XIV, branches of the Holy Roman Empire, and Napoleon Bonaparte over the course of many years. Yet the territory was not always a mere pawn as the House of Luxembourg in the 14th and 15th centuries produced kings of Bohemia, Croatia, Germany, and Hungary as well as several Holy Roman Emperors and archbishops. First granted the status of a duchy in 1354, Luxembourg subsequently ceded parts of its territory to its neighbors which repeatedly jockeyed for control but were ultimately unable to fully block its road to independence.
France was the first nation to receive Luxembourgish land as part of the 1659 settlement to the Franco-Spanish War. In the wake of Napoleon’s defeat in 1814, machinations to limit French power and set the stage for European peace led to the theoretical independence of Luxembourg. Terms reached during the Congress of Vienna required Luxembourg to relinquish another quarter of its land to Prussia while the remainder was elevated to the status of Grand Duchy within the Kingdom of the Netherlands under William I of Orange-Nassau, who also held the title of Grand Duke of Luxembourg. Yet Luxembourg simultaneously remained a member of the German Confederation, thus agreeing to thousands of Prussian military troops being stationed within its territory. The Belgian Revolution of 1830-31 brought European powers back to the negotiating table where they agreed to cede a significant portion of Luxembourg’s western lands and population to Belgium. This third partition of Luxembourg cleaved families and businesses leading to the loss of a large part of its Francophone areas. Luxembourg maintained an official status of neutrality and was able to expand its economy through the extraction of mineral ores and the advent of rail transport, both valuable activities during the industrialization of the later 19th century.
The Luxembourgish identity gained momentum in the early part of the 20th century, helped by growing anti-French and anti-German feelings. After Luxembourg was subjected to German occupation during World War I, Grand Duchess Marie-Adélaïde abdicated with her sister Charlotte replacing her. Several referenda were placed before the Luxembourg people, who expressed their strong preference for retaining the monarchy and replacing the former German customs union with different partners. Luxembourg joined the newly-formed League of Nations and established the Belgo-Luxembourg Economic Union (BLEU).
Judd mat Gaardebounen (smoked pork neck with stewed broad beans), the unofficial national dish of Luxembourg, served with local Diekirch beer. Image credit: Jpatokal, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Nonetheless, Nazi Germany ignored Luxembourg’s neutrality, invading in May 1940 before annexing it in August 1942. The occupation and conscription of Luxembourgers were met with general strikes, a resurgence of the Luxembourgish language, and defiant insistence that Luxembourgers were separate from Germans. Harsh repercussions, including executions and deportations, only strengthened their resolve. After the war, Luxembourg repudiated its stance of neutrality to join the United Nations, was one of the twelve founding nations of the North Atlantic Treaty Organization (NATO), and joined five other countries to form the European Coal and Steel Community (ECSC), a predecessor of the European Union.
Luxembourg has continued to exemplify an international outlook by opening its doors to foreign residents, who make up nearly half of the country’s population. Several key EU agencies are located in Luxembourg, including the European Commission (executive branch), Court of Justice, and European Investment Bank. Three Prime Ministers of Luxembourg – Gaston Thorn (1981-1985), Jacques Santer (1995-1999), and Jean-Claude Juncker (2014-2019) have served as the President of the European Commission. Beyond politics, Luxembourg was first recognized as a European Capital of Culture in 1995 and then again in 2007, when surrounding regions of Belgium, France, and Germany were included in a celebration of the “exchange between creative people in the Greater Region [of Luxembourg] and Europe and the wider world". Per the 1984 Language Regimen Act, Luxembourgish is the sole national language and one of three administrative languages, the others being French and German. Nearly half of the population claims Luxembourgish as their native language, but all three languages are taught in schools along with English in secondary school.
Gëlle Fra, detail, World War I Memorial in Luxembourg City. Image credit: Cayambe, licensed under the Creative CommonsAttribution-ShareAlike 3.0 License.
Unsurprisingly, Luxembourgish cuisine exhibits influences from its adjacent neighbors. From the southeast but enjoyed throughout the country is Judd mat Gaardebounen, cured or smoked pork cooked with vegetables and served with beans in a savory sauce. The dish is often accompanied by a locally brewed beer such as Battin, Bofferding, Diekirch, and Simon. Another typically Luxembourgish dish is Bouneschlupp, a hearty green bean soup with smoked bacon or sausage, potatoes, onions, and other vegetables. And from the Ardennes in the northern part of the country, Stäerzelen, or buckwheat dumplings, are served both savory, with smoked pork or sausages, or as a dessert when topped with applesauce or sugar. A somewhat lighter dessert choice is Quetschentaart or quetscheflued, a plum tart that takes advantage of the fall harvest season. Luxembourgish donuts called verwurelter are sugar-coated pastry knots prepared for Carnival whereas Äppelklatzen, pastry-wrapped apples cooked with cinnamon, nutmeg, and sugar, often grace dinner tables at Christmastime.
Just as in the distant past, Luxembourg is at a crossroads of Europe. However, it now exemplifies international cooperation and welcomes cultural interactions instead of serving as a fortified defensive post to be occupied and traded among rising and falling powers. Rather than holding or acting on grudges over lost territory, Luxembourg maintains friendly relations with its neighbors and other nations and retains linguistic and cultural influences from the past while ensuring its unique sovereignty. Its many castles have been preserved yet these formerly defensive structures are now open to visitors as emblems of the country’s history and culture. But Luxembourg maintains memories of the sacrifices made to ensure its independence. The Monument of Remembrance known as the Gëlle Fra (Golden Lady) soars above Luxembourg City as a memorial to the Luxembourgers who served during World War I and subsequent wars.
Jeu de français
Feeling multilingual? Try your hand at finding words from different languages used in Luxembourg.
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